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  • Can I use more than one type/color filament on one object?

    Yes. You can pause an object and change filament using the touch screen.

  • I can't unload the filament as directed in the manual, is there another way to change filament?

    An alternate way to change filament is to simply use scissors to cut off the existing filament above the extruder and use the normal load process to feed through the oldfilament and start your new spool. Repeat the load process until you see the new color coming from the nozzle.

  • The filament doesn't stick onto the build plate

    Solution1:  The gap between nozzle and build plate is too big.
    Solution2:  The build plate has not been leveled yet.
    Solution3:  Kapton tape has not been sticked on the build plate yet; or the non-sticky top layer of the Kapton tape is not removed.
    Solution4:  The first layer’s height is too small, recommended setting as ≥0.2

  • No filament coming out from the nozzle.

    The filament has not entered into the end of the nozzle yet when you feed the filament.

  • PLA vs. ABS Plastic – The Pros and Cons

    There are loads ofmaterials available, but when it comes to polymeres (like plastic), two typesof filament are most popular; PLA and ABS plastic. But what are thedifferences? Which one is best? To answer these questions, first let me tellyou a bit more about them.

    PLA (poly lactic acid)

    PLA isa bio-degradable type of plastic that is manufactured out of plant-basedresources such as corn starch or sugar cane.  This is why it is called‘the green plastic’. Be sure to throw it in a filament recycler and you’re as green ascan be. It’s widely used for packaging, such as food products, but of courseyou can also use it to print!

    ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)


    3dprinted out of ABS plastic

    ABS plastic is made out of oil-based resources and it has a much higher melting point thanPLA plastic. It’s also stronger and harder. Because of these particularfeatures, ABS is widely used for purposes ranging from car bumpers andmotorcycle helmets to musical instruments, golfclubs and Lego.

    So, which isbetter?




    + Can be printed on a cold surface

    – Can deform because of heat (like a cassette in a car)

    + More environmental-friendly

    – Less sturdy (than ABS)

    + Shinier and smoother appearance

    + Smells sweet when being print =)

    + No harmful fumes during printing

    + Higher 3d printer speed

    + More detail




    + Very sturdy and hard

    – Made out of oil, so more damaging to the environment

    + Suitable for machine or car parts

    – Deformes when not being print on a heated surface

    + Higher melting point

    – Hot plastic fumes when printing

    + Longer lifespan

    – Therefore, you need ventilation

    – More difficult to print

    – Not suitable for using with food

    A company that’smaking parts for machines will be better off when choosing ABS, because of itslifespan, its strength and its higher melting point. On the other hand, anartist who is making 3d models at home, will be better off choosing PLA becauseof its ease-of use, its appearance and because you don’t need ventilation.

    But, as you mighthave noticed, there are a few drawbacks to using either of the plastics. Forinstance, let’s say you want to print some new cups and dishes at home. Ifyou use PLA, you can’t put it in the dishwasher since it would deformthrough the heat. ABS is not an option either, since it’s oil-based andtherefore cannot be used for holding food or beverages.

  • How long does it take to build an object?

    The time it takes to build a 3D object depends on the size and complexity of the model file. 


  • Why does my printer make a grinding sound when it tries to home?

    If your printerdoes not home smoothly, the wire bundle may be getting pinched between thegantry and the build platform resulting in y belt slippage. Try repositioningthe wire bundle to prevent it from getting pinched and homing should gosmoothly.

  • What are the relationships among the layer thickness, print speed and nozzle temperature?

     The purpose of parameters interaction is to leave enough time for the filament heating and cooling. Normally, if the layer

    thickness goes up, please reduce the printing speed and turn up the printing temperature properly (If the printing speed

     is over 60, turn up by 5℃ ; if over 90, turn up by 10℃); Conversely, if the layer thickness goes down, please increase the

     printing speed and turn down the printing temperature.
  • The idle nozzle scratches the printing model while single color printing

    Solution:  The height of the idle nozzle is too low, turn it up.
    Please move the build platform to the top of Z axis, adjust the height of two nozzles according to the gap between the print head and the platform, tighten the idle nozzle by wrench and make it a little bit higher than the other one.

    2. The printing flow is too high, causing the actual layer thickness is higher than the original setting, after a while, the objectis over high and touch the main nozzle. Please turn down the printing flow.
  • There is the crack on the model, or the joint problem among the layers.
    Build plate is not properly leveled. Please level build plate once again. Material is not adhering to the build plate. Please stick the tape to your build plate. 
  • While printing the model with sealed roof and bottom, how to set excellent parameters to get high quality printing surfaces of the roof and bottom?
     Increase the printing thickness of the top or bottom in the basic parameters.
  • Model has flow line

    Temperature is too high; Or the filament is carbonized or liquefied (PLA will get liquefied if over-high temperature, ABS

     will get carbonized if over-high temperature)  If problem still persists, please contact our technical support team.
  • The edge is lifted, or the print cracked while printing with ABS filament

    Please keep the build plate heated continuously; Change a new tape; Slow down the printing speed of first layer; Use

    the enclosure plate to keep the constant temperature while printing; Avoid air condition’s blowing directly; Inside

    ventilation should not be so strong.

  • Why is extruder not moving to home position?

    Please ensure the extruder wire tube (tube with black mesh housing) moves freely and is located away from the build platform and guide rails. If caught on the build platform, the extruder will not return to home position and a loud noise may occur. In the event that extruder wire tube is caught on the build platform, power off the unit and reposition the wire tube above the build platform to allow it to travel freely.

  • How do I start printing with my 3D printer?

    You need a 3D model with the .STL file format. Then you use a slicing program to cut the model into thin horizontal segments. We recommend Slic3r or Cura. The slicing program generates the tool path based on the characteristics of the model and your extrusion settings. This program will generate the G-Code that drives the printer. Then you save the G-Code file to a SD card, insert SD card to the printer. Let’s start printing!

  • My 3D printer stops extruding during a print. When I back out the plastic filament it looks worn away.

    The extruder may jam during a print. The plastic filament will then erode on the hot bed bolt. This can be due to plastic filament quality issues, layer height and Z-axis zeroing issues.

    ·  Always use a quality plastic filament. Air pockets within the filament, excessive variations in filament diameter and humidity absorption can affect the amount of filament entering the melting chamber and ultimately change the rate of plastic filament extruded.

    ·  Eliminate layer height issues by ensuring that the layer height is set at 80% of your nozzle diameter or less. You can strip the plastic filament by forcing the extruder to attempt to extrude faster through the hot end than it's able. As you get comfortable with changing your slicing settings, you'll be able to print lower layer heights at faster speeds.

    ·  You can cause hot end extrusion issues by having an excessively low initial Z-axis height when homing. It is more common to run into this when printing with smaller layer heights. You can use a thin slip of paper to zero in your Z-axis homing. Adjust your Z-axis end stop so that the paper no longer slides under the hot end nozzle. The first layer should have a visible extrusion with regular width and consistency. If the extrusion path is clear or light, raise the end stop adjustment slightly until the deposited plastic is visible and regular.